1. 8 Ball Pool Tournament Rules
2. International 8 Ball Pool Rules
3. Official Rules For 8 Ball Pool
4. 8 Ball Pool Rules Game Pigeon Game

9.2 8-Ball Foul. An 8-ball foul occurs when the 8-ball comes to rest off of the pool table, when the 8-ball is pocketed in the wrong pocket or out of sequence, or when the 8-ball is pocketed while a foul occurred (i.e., shooting player pockets the 8-ball and simultaneously scratches). The game continues if the 8-ball has not been pocketed. 8 Ball is a massively entertaining multiplayer iMessage game from the GamePigeon app that lets you shoot pool with players all over the globe. The game has a cash and coin-based reward system that lets you upgrade and buy new pool cues, play at higher-stakes tables and other cosmetic items. When the 8-ball is the legal object ball, a scratch or foul is not loss of game if the 8-ball is not pocketed or jumped from the table. Incoming player has cue ball in hand. Note: A combination shot can never be used to legally pocket the 8-ball, except when the 8-ball is the first ball contacted in the shot sequence. The Rules: -No seeds are secured until when the tournament starts. If you beat a higher seed as a practice game, you may be moved up.If you win, you and the person that you played against have to signify the score and tell it to me (Noah). 8-ball pool game demands dedication and time to master. But that doesn’t mean it’s not enjoyable for beginners. To get started with the game of 8-ball, there are some general rules that you need to observe: How to Play 8-Ball: Basic Concepts. 8-ball pool is a call shot game played with a cue ball and 15 numbered balls.

1.0 OBJECT OF THE GAME

8-Ball is played with a cue ball and fifteen object balls, numbered 1 through 15. Balls 1–7 are solid colors and commonly referred to as “low balls”, and balls 9–15 are striped and commonly referred to as “high balls.” One player must pocket balls of solid colors, while the other player must pocket the striped balls. The player who pockets their entire group and then legally pockets the 8-ball wins the game.

2.0 LAG FOR BREAK

The player with the lowest official UPA Speed (Rating) shall break first with an alternating break format taking place thereafter. In the event that two players with equal Speeds play, a “Lag for Break” shall determine who breaks first with an alternating break format taking place thereafter. Winner of lag is the player whose ball is closer to head of the rail.

2.1 How to Rack

To begin the game of 8-ball, the 15 colored balls are placed randomly in a triangle, called a “rack”. The base of the rack is parallel to the short end of the pool table and is positioned so the ball in the tip of the rack is located on the center of the foot spot. The balls in the rack are pressed together tightly to acquire a solid rack, and remain in contact after the rack is removed. Within the rack, the 8-ball is centered while the two corners are occupied by the two opposite groups (one solid ball and one striped ball). The game begins with the cue ball in hand placed anywhere behind the head string. The head string is the quarter of the billiard table farthest from the rack, or an area also commonly referred to as the “kitchen.”

NOTE: The UPA acknowledges that tables may have flaws that do not allow for acceptable racks directly upon the foot spot. In these cases, players are permitted to rack within a dime’s radius of the direct foot spot to achieve a solid rack.

NOTE: Touching or positioning of balls after the rack has been removed is never permitted. Player must re-rack if this occurs (see 9.5, Ball Tapping).

2.2 Rack Your Own

When there is no official available, each breaking player shall be responsible for providing himself/herself a legal and solid rack.

3.0 LEGAL BREAK SHOT

For the break shot to be legal, the breaker (with the base of the cue ball placed anywhere behind the head string) must either pocket a number ball or drive at least four (4) number balls to one or more rails. No ball is called, and the cue ball is not required to hit any particular object ball first. If the breaker fails to make the legal break requirement, the balls will be re-racked and the opponent shall have the option of breaking or requesting the offending player to break again.

NOTE: If the cue ball is touched by the cue tip and does not meet the legal break requirement, it is considered an “illegal break.”

Game play after a Legal Break:

When any numbered ball is pocketed on a legal break the breaking player is to continue their inning (see 5.0, Open Table). If the breaker makes a legal break, however, commits a foul on the legal break by pocketing the cue-ball and/or sending any balls off the table, the game is to continue with the opponent having ball in hand anywhere behind the head-string, however must shoot an object ball beyond the head-string (outside of the “kitchen”) or it is a ball in hand foul.

4.0 8-BALL POCKETED ON THE BREAK

4.1 Game Win

Legally pocketing the 8-ball on the break (no foul committed) wins the game for the breaker.

4.2 Game Loss

The following situations result in the loss of the game for the breaker:
• 8-ball is pocketed on the break and another foul simultaneously occurs
• 8-ball comes to rest off of the pool table

5.0 OPEN TABLE

The table is always open immediately after the break shot. The player’s designated group (solids or stripes) will not be determined until a player legally pockets a called object ball. The table is considered an “open” table when the choice of groups (solid or stripes) has not yet been determined. When the table is open, it is legal to hit one group of balls in order to pocket another ball from the opposite group.

NOTE: The 8-ball may be utilized in a combination as long as it is not struck first; this action would result in a foul.

6.0 CALL POCKET

In Call Pocket, it is encouraged that all balls be specified along with their intended pocket. However obvious balls and their respective pockets do not have to be specified. Any bank shot (object ball to rail), kick shot (rail(s) to object ball), or combinations (2 or more balls from either group) must be called to their designated pocket, or they are considered a miss. When a player successfully pockets his/her designated object balls, they continue their inning until either a miss or a foul occurs.

Call pocket notes:
a) It is never necessary to specify details such as the number of banks, kisses, caroms, rails, etc.
b) Any balls pocketed, legally or illegally, as a result of a called shot will remain pocketed, regardless of the group (stripe or solid).
c) The break shot is never considered a “called shot.”
d) A ball must hit a rail, or go into a pocket after contact with the cue ball (see 7.4, No Rail).

7.0 BALL IN HAND FOUL PENALTIES

When a player commits a ball in hand foul, he/she must relinquish his/her turn at the table. The incoming player may now place the cue ball anywhere on the table to start his/her inning. If a player commits more than one foul on one shot, only one foul will be called. A player must make sure he/she has ball in hand before touching the cue ball.

7.1 Cue Ball Fouls Only

a) Touching the cue ball: Touching or causing even the slightest movement of the cue ball (other than a normal shot), even accidentally, is a foul. However a player may use the ferrule or shaft of his/her cue to line up the cue ball when a “cue ball in hand” is in play. Using the tip is a foul, and ball in hand will be given to the other player.
b) Touching a moving object ball: Touching a moving object ball or allowing a moving ball to hit a foreign object is a ball in hand foul. If the accidental movement of a ball(s) results in the disturbed ball(s) being struck by any moving balls in play, it results in a ball in hand foul.
c) Touching a still object ball: Any still object ball moved can only be moved back to its original position with the permission of the opponent. However the opponent may exercise the option of keeping disturbed ball(s) in new position if they so choose. Only after receiving consent from the opponent, the player who has committed the error may move the disturbed object ball(s) back to original position. If the player who has committed the infraction touches any of the disturbed balls without consent of opponent, it will result in a loss of turn with ball in hand to the opponent.

NOTE: If the 8-ball was pocketed the result shall be a loss of game (see 4.2, Game Loss).

7.2 Scratch

Pocketing the cue ball or driving it off the table is a ball in hand foul. If a scratch occurs while shooting the 8-ball, but the 8-ball was not pocketed or removed from the table, the game continues with ball in hand to the opponent (scratching on the 8-ball is not a loss of game as long as the 8-ball is still in play).

7.3 Bad Hit

If the first object ball contacted by the cue ball is not a numbered ball from the shooter’s established group, it is a ball in hand foul. I.E. player’s established group are Solid balls, however they shoot and the cue ball makes a contact with a stripped ball first.

NOTE: If the shooter has no remaining balls from his/her group in play, the 8-ball effectively becomes the shooter’s object ball, respectively.

7.4 No Rail

If after the cue ball strikes a legal ball and neither the cue ball nor any other ball hits a rail or is pocketed, it is a ball in hand foul. A “Frozen” (touching) object ball to the rail does not meet this requirement by virtue of it not “hitting” a rail.

NOTE: Players are encouraged to mutually acknowledge when the object ball is “Frozen” (touching) to the rail.

7.5 Balls off the Table

Causing any ball to come to rest off of the pool table is a foul and any such ball(s) are pocketed. This includes any accidental movement of a ball which results in a ball falling into a pocket. The ball accidentally pocketed is not brought back into play, and the incoming player has cue ball in hand.

If a player knocks a ball off the table and the ball returns to the playing surface after hitting a person or an object, it is a foul (the ball remains on surface). If no object or person was contacted, then normal rules of play apply once the ball returns to the playing surface.

NOTE: If a player removes the 8-ball from the pool table, it results in a loss of game (see 4.2, Game Loss).

7.6 Foot on the Floor

Failure to have at least one foot on the floor at the moment the cue tip strikes the cue ball is a ball in hand foul.

7.7 Jump Shot

Any miscue on a jump shot is a ball in hand foul. A legal jump shot must be executed by stroking down through the cue ball (no scooping or miscues).

7.8 Moving Ball

Shooting while any ball is moving or spinning is a ball in hand foul.

7.9 Double Hit

If the cue tip strikes the cue ball twice on the same stroke, it is a ball in hand foul. In order to avoid a double hit, the cue ball must be struck at a minimum of a 45° angle whenever in contact with or riskily close (1/2 inch or closer) to the intended object ball.

NOTE: Calling a referee to watch “the hit” is always preferable. The referee shall assume that a foul has been committed if the 45° rule was not utilized by the shooter.

7.10 Head String

The base of the cue ball must be behind the head string on the break, or it is a ball in hand foul.

7.11 Ball in Hand Placement

Touching an object ball, in any way, while placing the cue ball is a ball in hand foul.

7.12 Interference

While the shooting player is at the table, the non-shooting player, as well as their teammates, cannot disturb, make noises, move around, cause distraction (sharking) in any way. All players must conduct themselves in a respectful manner or a manner consistent with that of a professional, or it may result in an “Official Warning” by a UPA representative or tournament official followed by the calling of a foul (ball in hand) for interference.

NOTE: During amateur league play it is understood that the match is between the two players and teammates are not permitted to instruct unless called upon by the shooting player for a Rules Clarification or Time Out (see 9.6, Coaching Assistance).

7.13 Marking the Table

Marking the table in any way that could provide a player with an advantage in executing a shot is a foul, unless the mark is removed to the satisfaction of the opponent or referee prior to shooting.

7.14 Playing Out of Turn

If/when a player shoots out of turn and it is brought to the attention of the offending shooter, the rightful player is to return to the table and continue without any penalties/fouls. It is the responsibility of both players to assume control of the table on his/her proper inning.

8.0 SAFETY PLAY

For strategic reasons, a player may choose to pocket an object ball and discontinue his/her inning by declaring “safety” to the opponent prior to the shot. The player calling “safety” must be sure that the opponent is aware of the declaration. Otherwise, he/she would be forced to continue playing. Any ball pocketed during safety play remains pocketed.

NOTE: A safety shot still requires the normal attributes of a legal shot.

9.0 LOSS OF GAME

9.1 Opponent Wins

The opponent legally pockets the 8-ball.

9.2 8-Ball Foul

An 8-ball foul occurs when the 8-ball comes to rest off of the pool table, when the 8-ball is pocketed in the wrong pocket or out of sequence, or when the 8-ball is pocketed while a foul occurred (i.e., shooting player pockets the 8-ball and simultaneously scratches). The game continues if the 8-ball has not been pocketed.

9.3 Conceding a Game

Concession of a game or games in tournament play is never encouraged. The shooting player must finish his/her inning, or the result shall be a loss of game(s) for the conceding player. Any concession of game, for any reason, is considered a loss for the offending player.

9.4 Concession of a Match

Unscrewing any cues during the last game (or while the shooting player is on the hill), putting on a jacket, or undertaking any other actions which would indicate that the match is over is considered a forfeiture of the match (consult UPA representative or tournament official).

9.5 Ball Tapping

Tapping balls is not permitted. After an “Official Warning” by a UPA representative or tournament official has been granted to the offender, the penalty for ball tapping shall be the loss of the current game. Only tournament officials may tap in balls when warranted.

9.6 Coaching Assistance

During their inning and only once per game, only the shooting player may call a “Time Out” that shall last no more than a two (2) minute period. During this time the player may receive instruction from an available teammate. Otherwise a player who receives advice from respective teammates shall grant a ball in hand foul to the opponent. And on the second (2^nd) infraction shall grant the current game in favor of the opponent by a forfeit.

Calling a Time Out: When calling a “Time Out,” the player is to select an available team member to immediately assist them without conferring with other parties.

10.0 STALEMATE

If in 3 consecutive innings by each player, the players purposefully foul or scratch because both players agree that any attempt to pocket or move an object ball would result in an immediate loss of the game, then the game is considered a stalemate. At this time, the game would be re-racked and the breaker would remain the same, maintaining the integrity of the alternate break format.

11.0 GENERAL POOL RULES

11.1 Wrong Balls Pocketed

When it is discovered that the shooting player has been shooting the opponent’s designated ball(s) as if it were their own, the shooter shall relinquish the table with a ball in hand foul to the opponent (see 7.3, Bad Hit).

11.2 Forfeits

Players are allotted fifteen (15) minutes to begin their match, or the match is considered forfeited.

NOTE: Once a match is scheduled to start and a fifteen (15) minute count is desired, the opponent is to notify a tournament official, or UPA representative for an official count.

11.3 Shot Clock

Shot Clock implementation is at the sole discretion of the UPA, its representatives or tournament officials. When a shot clock is utilized it shall be used for both players competing and in the following manner:

Each shooting player is allotted one (1) minute for each shot, or a “ball in hand” foul shall be granted to the opponent. The shot clock is to be started once all balls come to rest. The time keeper (designated by UPA) shall call out “Ten Seconds!” once the fifty (50) second mark has been reached, unless the shooter is down on the shot in preparation to shoot. Once one (1) minute has been reached on the shot clock, the shooter must either be stroking or have shot. If the shooter rises (gets off the shot) without execution after the one (1) minute mark has been reached, it shall result in a “ball in hand” foul to the opponent.

11.4 Split Hits

If the cue ball strikes a legal object ball and a non-legal object ball at about the same instant and it cannot be clearly determined which ball was hit first, the judgment will go in favor of the shooter.

11.5 Ball Rebounds from Pocket

Balls must remain in a pocket to count as pocketed. If a ball goes into a pocket and bounces back on to the playing surface, it is not considered pocketed. If it is the 8-ball, it is not a win. If it is the cue ball, it is not a scratch. Clearing pockets that are full or nearly full of balls is the responsibility of the shooting player.

11.6 Hanging Ball

If any ball hangs in a pocket and drops in 5 seconds or less after coming to complete rest by the hole, the ball is considered to be pocketed. If a hanging ball drops in the pocket after being at rest for more than 5 seconds, the ball is returned to the original position on the edge, and the incoming player may begin his/her inning. Both players will have the opportunity to argue their case. The referee’s decision is final.

11.7 Suspended Balls

If one or more balls become suspended in a pocket beyond the edge of the slate because it is partially supported by other pocketed balls, it is considered pocketed if the removal of the supporting ball(s) would cause the supported/suspended ball(s) to fall into the pocket. Tournament officials are the sole judges of whether this rule applies to any situation.

11.8 Settling Into Place

A ball may settle slightly after it appears to have stopped, possibly due to slight imperfections in the cloth or table slate. Unless this causes a ball to fall into a pocket, it is considered a normal hazard of play and will not be moved back. If a ball falls into a pocket as a result of such settling, it is replaced as close as possible to its original position on the lip of the pocket. If a ball falls into a pocket during or just prior to a shot and it has an effect on the shot, the referee will restore the ball to its original position and the shot will be replayed. Players are not penalized for shooting while a ball is settling.

11.9 Jump Shots

It is legal to cause the cue ball to leave the surface of the table by elevating the butt of the cue and, with a downward stroke, force the cue ball to rise off the playing surface. For the shot to be legal only the cue tip may touch the cue ball—the shot must not be “scooped” by the ferrule or shaft. Any miscue on a jump shot is a ball in hand foul. A legal jump cue must be at least 40 inches in length and constructed in typical cue fashion.

NOTE: Standard jump cues are accepted, including phenolic tips. However, cues that are not typical in appearance must be accepted and approved by the UPA.

11.10 Use of Equipment

All equipment that is generally accepted throughout the industry is permitted. However, using any equipment in a non-customary manner is never allowed and constitutes a foul. It is the responsibility of the shooting player to know what the intended use of each piece of equipment is: the bridge, jump cues, extensions, etc.

NOTE: The use of headphones and other devices are not permitted. The use of racks and balls not provided by the venue must be agreed upon by both players.

12.0 TOURNAMENT DIRECTOR/REFEREES

8 Ball Pool Tournament Rules

12.1 Player Responsibility

It is the responsibility of each member to be aware of all rules, regulations, and schedules relating to his/her competition. Tournament officials will make every reasonable effort to make the information readily available to all players. However the ultimate responsibility rests with each individual player. There is no recourse if a player does not obtain correct or complete information.

NOTE: Players may always call for rule(s) clarification during league play. This is not considered a “Time Out.”

12.2 Referees

The League Operator (or his/her assistants) will perform the duties of a referee in the event that referees are busy or not utilized. If the Tournament Director, his/her assistants, or a referee cannot be found within a reasonable time frame, a spectator may sub as an official referee when agreed upon by both players.

12.3 Playing Without a Referee

When a referee or tournament official is not available, the players in the match will be responsible for racking balls, watching/calling fouls (including on themselves), and insuring adherence to UPA rules of competition. Both players may agree on an audience member (familiar with UPA rules) to stand in and perform any duty of a tournament official. How to play game pigeon on samsung.

12.4 Questionable Shot

If there is a shot that could be a questionable hit or foul, the seated player is responsible for calling for a tournament official or agreed upon third (3rd) party to watch the hit before the opponent is shooting. Once notified, the player at the table must then wait for an “official” to watch the shot. Likewise, if a player is uncertain whether some rule has been broken, he/she is responsible for seeking immediate clarification from league officials or the rulebook before play continues. After play continues, it is unlikely that a problem can be remedied.

NOTE: If a tournament official or third (3rd) party was not utilized, “the call” shall be left to the shooter without further discussion.

12.5 Scoring

Players are encouraged to score their own matches to ensure accuracy, however a third (3rd) party may be permitted by the League Operator. The scorer is charged to accurately record what actually took place on the pool table and may clarify with the shooter what the intention was whenever needed. I.E. If it is believed a player is purposely calling a pocket, however actually plays a safe, then a safety (S) shall be recorded. Likewise if a player calls a “safety” however fouls, then a foul (F) is recorded. A player always has the right to consult the Scorecard with the scorekeeper. Any disagreements shall be determined by the League Operator or an official UPA representative.

12.6 Advice vs. Rules Clarification

The referee must NEVER give advice nor offer an opinion on points of play. Only when asked by either player for clarification of a rule will the referee then explain that specific rule to the best of his/her ability. Any incorrect statement made by the referee will not protect a player from enforcement of the actual rule. When asked, the referee must tell either player the score, whether the cue ball is frozen to an object ball or rail, etc. If the referee sees that a foul is about to be committed by either player, he must say nothing until after the foul, since any warning before the foul would constitute “advice” from the referee.

12.7 Prompting Warnings

If either player has the opinion that the referee is failing to issue a mandatory “Official Warning,” he/she may remind the referee that such a warning is necessary.

12.8 Calling Fouls

The referee will call all fouls as soon as they occur and will inform the incoming player that he/she has ball in hand (see 12.3, Playing Without a Referee).

12.9 Protesting Fouls

If a player believes that the referee has failed to call a foul, he/she must protest to the referee before his/her opponent takes his/her next shot. If the player fails to do so, the foul is considered to have not occurred.

12.10 Restoring Position

When it becomes necessary, the referee will restore disturbed balls to their original positions to the best of his/her ability. If the referee is not sure of original positions, he/she may solicit information for this purpose. If the balls were disturbed by a player in the match, his/her opponent has the option of preventing restoration. If the balls were disturbed by someone else, it is mandatory for the referee to restore the balls. In this case, if the outside interference had an effect on the outcome of the shot, the referee may instruct the shooter to replay the shot after restoration. If not, the referee will instruct the shooter to continue play after restoration.

12.11 Verification

The referee may use any means to gather needed information in order to make a decision concerning a disputed play or game situation.

12.12 Replay of Game

A replay of game is only warranted under the two following unique circumstances;

• A Stalemate has occurred (see 10.0, Stalemate)
• Table Failure; torn cloth, balls stuck in pocket, etc.

12.13 Resolving Disputes

Any disagreement between the two players will be resolved by the League Operator, his/her appointed representative, or any administrative member of the UPA.

13.0 SPECIAL RULINGS

Any rule or situation not covered in this text shall be decided in an expedient manner by the League Operator, his/her appointed representative or any administrative member of the UPA in accordance with UPA ideals and guidelines for the purposes of league play to continue. Such expedient rulings shall then be made known to the administration of the UPA Corporate Office and its’ Touring Professionals before further instruction or implementation of the matter is finalized.

13.1 Bylaws

These rules are consistent nationwide and are not to be altered in any way, shape, or form. The implementation of any “Bylaws,” or any other document, is strictly prohibited by UPA Corporate Office.

13.2 Addendums

From time to time there may be addendums issued by the UPA to the Official UPA Rulebook, and it is each individual player’s responsibility to keep current.

What are some examples of good 8-ball strategy?

See Vol. I and Vol. V of the Video Encyclopedia of Eight Ball (VEEB) for comprehensive coverage of this topic.

The most important strategic decision made in 8-ball is choosing between “solids” and “stripes” after the break. Here are some good examples from Vol. III of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots of things to consider:

Another important decision is in selecting “key” balls. Here are some examples from Vol. I of the Video Encyclopedia of Eight Ball (VEEB) and from Vol. III of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (VEPS):

/how-can-android-and-iphone-user-play-game-pigeon-together.html. For more info, see: VEEB – Part II: Selecting Key Balls (BD, 2015). Here’s another video with a good example of “key ball” selection:

It is also very important to know how to deal with pocket blockers. Here are some examples from Vol. I of the Video Encyclopedia of Eight Ball (VEEB):

For more information, see “VEEB – Part I: Pocket Blockers” (BD, November, 2015).

It is also very important to know how to deal with common end-game situations. For examples, see the end-game situation strategy resource page.

And here are some run-out examples from Vol. V of the Video Encyclopedia of Eight Ball (VEEB) and Vol. V of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Shots (VEPS):

For more information, see “VEEB – Part IX: Run-Out Examples” (BD, July, 2016).

Here are some useful drills from Vol. III of the Video Encyclopedia of Pool Practice (VEPP) to practice patterns common in 8-ball:

For more information, see “VEPP – Part VIII: 8-Ball Pattern Drills” (BD, November, 2012) and “Billiard University (BU) – Part VII: 8-Ball Drills,” (BD, February, 2014).

Here’s a summary of important 8-ball strategy:

1. Choose “solids” or “stripes” wisely after the break (per the info above).
2. Choose the key ball for the 8 very carefully (per the info above).
3. Choose the key ball for the key ball very carefully.
4. Plan your run-out from the 8-ball backwards.
5. Reevaluate your run-out plan after each shot, especially if you get out of line.
6. Minimize CB motion when possible.
7. Walk around the table while evaluating a run-out plan.
8. Deal with problem balls as early as possible.
9. Clear balls from the center of the table early since they block common CB paths and can cause trouble late in the rack.
10. Break out clusters when there is an insurance ball available, and use as little speed as necessary for better control.
11. Don’t bump into or disturb balls (yours or your opponent’s) if it is not necessary.
12. Pocket or move balls that clear the way for other balls as early as possible.
13. Pocket groups of balls in one area at a time to avoid having to go up and down the table.
14. If you can’t run-out, play a safety early in the game and solve problems (or create problems for your opponent, like a blocked pocket) in the process if possible.
15. On a “bar box,” avoid the side pockets when possible.
16. If you decide to run out, don’t miss, and don’t take the “easy shots” for granted.
17. Consider playing safe instead of attempting a low-percentage shot.
18. If your opponent has many more balls on the table than you, an offensive shot (even low percentage) is often better than a safety (unless the safety is extremely effective).
19. Try to avoid “one ball hell,” where you only have one OB left on the table and your opponent has many. It is very difficult to win in a situation like this.
20. When an opponent has you in a bad situation, with no reasonable offensive or defensive shot at one of your balls, consider an intentional foul where you pocket a problem opponent ball (assuming your opponent doesn’t have an easy run-out).

Advice, strategy and options concerning the break are covered on the 8-ball break resource page.

from Poolplaya9 (in AZB post):

Being able to see the problems, patterns, and positions needed to run out the rack is not even half of the equation. The other part, and arguably even more important part (although both are absolutely essential), is being able to accurately weigh risk verses reward, and accurately assess what each of the options available will do to your chances to ultimately win the game, otherwise known as “playing the percentages”. Acquiring the ability to accurate assess the percentages for success with each option will only come through lots of experience, however being able to be honest with yourself is an absolute necessity and can be very difficult for many to do, and making a concerted effort to pay attention to how things turn out depending on the choices you made will shorten the learning curve.
Your specific abilities and weaknesses will also have some impact on what you should do. The right choice for SVB will not always be the right choice for you because of your skill differences, but at the same time you also have to be trying to improve so that you become comfortable with the “right” decision to make in a circumstance and the “right” way to play the shot. If you always fall back on “well I am not good at speed control so I won’t play the safe here even though I know it is the right shot and instead will just try to run out” for example then it is going to be hard to ever learn that safety if you won’t ever shoot it now isn’t it? You learn by doing, so while you have to keep in mind your specific skills, you also have to push yourself to do things the “right” way with the right plays so you can learn those skills too. When you are practicing is a good time to always try to play the “right” shots, even if they aren’t the best choice yet for your skill level if it were a more meaningful match, because that is the only way you are going to learn them and become comfortable with them.
While there are always exceptions, here are some general rules of thumb for 8 ball to try to keep in mind and live by and plenty more could be added but these kind of fit in to some of the questions you have asked:
—As counter intuitive as it will sound to someone still learning the game, the guy who has the most balls on the table usually has a significant advantage in the game. The reasons why are because it is more interference balls in the way for your opponent, it is more balls for you to be able to play safe off of or hide behind if needed, there is a much better chance you will have a good shot if your opponent misses or plays safe, etc. Why on earth would you want to give up your advantage in the game? Keep that advantage until it is the right time to run out and win the game.
—Don’t go for the run out until you have a pretty high percentage chance of being successful at the run including sinking the 8 ball too. You have to be able to be honest with yourself in your evaluation.
—Go for your problem ball (the one that will be very tough to get good shape on) as soon as possible in your run. If you fail to get good on it, try to get on it again as soon as you can. Saving problems for the end of the game usually leads to disaster because if you fail to solve it when it is one of the last balls you are now out of options and chances, whereas when you go for it early, you will likely get several chances to try to solve that problem throughout the game if needed.
—Try to solve your problem clusters as soon as possible in a run for the same reasons as above, because if you fail to break it out properly early in the rack you may get more chances, but once that is all you have left you are up a creek in a bad way.

—Whenever you get ball in hand you should almost always try to take care of your biggest problem on the table, whether that is a ball that will be extremely tough to get shape on later, or whether it is a cluster or some other problem. Even if you are going to have to play safe with ball in hand, try to do it in a way that takes care of your biggest problem if at all possible (say by moving your “tough to get shape on” ball into a better position, or breaking up your problem cluster, etc), and if that is not possible try to take care of your second biggest problem instead and so on. Sometimes the best way to address an issue while playing safe is through indirect means such as hitting one of your balls over near say a problem cluster so that ball now becomes a good key ball to break out the cluster from as you pocket it on some later turn. Sometimes with ball in hand you may want to take a shot before playing safe even when you already know you have no intention of trying to run out yet, such as pocketing your “really tough to get shape on” ball before playing safe with with the second shot as that may be the play that best increases your chances for ultimately winning.
—As has been mentioned previously, with every turn at the table you are trying to do something that is going to increase your chances for being able to win the game, so always look for those opportunities. Don’t be satisfied for example with just looking for a good safe that hides the ball for your opponent, but instead look for a good safe that also solves one of your cluster problems or other problems. The examples here could be endless and you really have to analyze the table to find these opportunities. They don’t always exist but a lot of times they do but aren’t real obvious and you are going to miss them if you are not looking hard for them.
—While you always want to improve your situation with every turn at the table if possible, keep in mind whether or not it benefits your opponent as well. If it benefits him as much or more than it benefits you, like breaking up some clusters might do for example, then it may not be the proper shot or the proper time to take it.

from Skippy27 (in AZB post):

One thing I would stress is to keep it simple. You know your strengths and your weakness so play to your strengths when in a match and work on the weak parts when practicing to make them a strength.
Pattern play does not matter if as part of that pattern you are leaving yourself shots that are a weakness (say rail shots, or long spot shots) for you. Clearly part of pattern play to learn is how to get yourself to the next strength shot while you avoid putting yourself in a position to shoot one of your weak shots. Some people see the table differently because of this and play it differently it does not mean they did it wrong.
Always look at the pocket line and know if you need the cue above it or below it for your next shoot, to get to your third shoot the way you need to in order to continue the run. Most importantly know when you need to concede the table so you can stop making balls and put yourself in a position to return to it. The worse thing you can do is allow you ego to remove most, if not all, your balls so your opponent has an open table to work with.

from CreeDo (in AZB post):

• Get the stripes-or-solids group where the problems are all solvable
(meaning a tricky tied-up ball has another ball nearby that naturally breaks it up).
I’d rather have a group with 2 solvable problems than a group with 1 problem and no natural way to deal with it.
• Don’t ever risk getting hooked while trying to play aggressive position, unless you have a “plan B” shot available.
“Too long” you can deal with. “Too thin” you can deal with. Even on the rail can be dealt with. Hooked = game over.
Especially on a barbox, don’t be afraid to settle a bit on shape, if it means you have the right angle and 0 risk of hook.
• Just because a ball is near the side, doesn’t mean you have to play it there. In fact thats where a lot of players
get into trouble. Getting funny on a side pocket shot means moving the cue ball up and down the whole table
weaving through traffic. That’s the kind of risky stuff that ends runs. Plan for mostly corner pocket shots.
This goes double on the barbox. Move the cue ball less.
• If you start with ball in hand, solve your biggest problem with it. Don’t play position to solve the problem later.
Solve it right now. With your ball in hand. Many runouts are blown by people getting too cute,
trying to sink a ball or two before dealing with their problem.
• Don’t miss. 9-ball gets people used to 2-way shots where missing is sometimes safe,
the opponent is left long or even hooked. In 8-ball a miss is much worse. If you’re gonna risk a missable shot,
do it early in the rack.

from Cornerman (in AZB post):

Leaving your balls in the center of the table as your last or nearly last balls isn’t a good idea for two reasons:

1) It limits your pathways for your cueball
2) positionally speaking, it is more challenging to get the proper angle on a ball in the center of the table.
It’s easy to see why number 2 is true when the table is full of balls; it’s tougher to see why it’s a challenge when you only have your balls left.

Ways to screw up a ball-in-hand runout in 8-ball (barbox or otherwise):

International 8 Ball Pool Rules

• The number one way a ball-in-hand out in 8-ball is botched is by leaving the object balls in the center of the table as the last balls. The balls in the center of the table block path routes, and are deceptively challenging when the “proper angle” is needed to get to the 8-ball.
• The number two way to botch a ball-in-hand runout is to leave hanging balls until the last balls. There’s little reason to take hangers out late.
• The number three way to botch a ball-in-hand runout is to leave two balls side-by-side in the same pocket, as opposed to just leaving one ball as the last ball before the 8-ball. If you just take one out earlier, the there is no “which one do you have to get on first” failure mode.
• The number four way to botch up a ball-in-hand runout is stick too tightly to the “clear all balls from one side of the table” misconception. I cant’ recall where this idea is ever correct, yet so many people bring it up as if there’s some sanity to it.
• The number five way to botch up a ball-in-hand runout is try too hard to set yourself into rules. These are just guidelines.

from 8onthebreak (in AZB post):

A great 8 ball player is great because he finds the easiest pattern, not because he’s a better executer. 8 ball is chess, running out isn’t as important as moving the pieces into position. it is a game of patience. Some suggestions…
1. Never break out a cluster if you don’t have to. Usually the balls will go into A pocket, you need precision cue ball control to get the position, but breaking them out leads to scratches, and many times, no shot after.
2. Find a pattern that is easy to run out, involving NO draw. Top is much more predictable. Start with the 8 ball, and work your way backwards to find the best pattern…your last shot before the eight should be an easy stop shot, with easy shot on the eight. The shot before that should be an easy stop shot with position for an easy shot on the setup ball…etc. work backwards thru the rack and if you pick the pattern out correctly, a b player should be able to run it out almost every time.
3. Clear your trouble balls early, this includes any balls on the rail or in a cluster.
4. Never shoot your ducks in. They are like soldiers fighting for you. Theres 4 reasons for this. They are an easy shot from anywhere and give you easy position for almost any shot on the table. Also, It will be difficult for anyone to play a safe on you if you have hangers on the table, and they block pockets so your opponent can’t use the pocket.
5. Look at clusters as a golden opportunity. A cluster is absolutely THE BEST environment to play a safe into. Always look at the cluster, and determine how u can hit a ball in the cluster, freeing that ball, and stop the cue ball inside the cluster or behind it, acquiring an easy ball in hand. Plan, get position for the safe, and take the safety shot, wait for ball in hand or an easy runout with the cluster now being makeable since u removed the tough ball. Clusters are your friend.
6. Don’t move the cue ball, settle for short side shape, nice, easy…there’s no long shots on the table, so any shot is an easy shot if you are even remotely in shape.
7. If you are less than 70% sure you’ll make the shot…start looking for a safety. If you can’t find a safe with significantly better odds of success, take the shot.
8. Gently bump opponents balls to the rail, and especcially away from the side pocket when possible. A hanger in the side pocket can win you a game cuz its guaranteed position to anywhere on the table…however, a ball on the rail next to the side pocket has about a 30% chance of costing a good player the game. If the opportunity presents itself to make one of your hangers in the side pocket, off of his duck, and move his duck to the rail…you’ve just put the odds in your favor to return to the table if you should make a mistake.
9. Don’t shoot hard…it’s an unnecessary risk.
10. Don’t shoot soft…it’s an unnecessary table roll risk.
11 Patience, patience, patience.

from Billy_Bob:

1. Don’t pocket ANY of your balls if any are tied up. LEAVE THEM! Instead hit clusters where your balls are tied up and re-arrange the table so every one of your balls can be made into a pocket. THEN run out. You CAN’T win if one of your balls is tied up and can’t be made into a pocket. You can’t win if the 8-ball is tied up and can’t be made into a pocket. Leaving your balls on the table will get in the way of your opponent. What will frequently happen if you do this is your opponent will shoot in most of his balls except two or three (as you are busy unblocking your clusters and turning the table back over to him). Then you wind up with a wide open table, very easy to run-out at this point. You have cleared up your cluster problems first thing and your opponent has been kind enough to get his balls out of your way! RUNOUT!

Official Rules For 8 Ball Pool

2. If you can’t run-out because you still have one or more trouble balls, and you have a ball blocking a pocket and this is blocking the 8 or one of your opponent’s balls, LEAVE IT! Shoot at a cluster and fix trouble balls first. Your opponent can’t win if his ball or the 8 is blocked.

3. If you are left with a difficult shot and it is VERY LIKELY you will wind up giving your opponent ball-in-hand, might as well do something constructive instead of missing your shot. Something which will make winning for you easier or will make winning for your opponent more difficult. Shoot an intentional foul! Shoot one of your opponent’s balls into a nasty spot. Create a cluster for your opponent by shooting at his balls. Shoot at one of your opponent’s balls so it hits one of your balls which is in a cluster and tied up and this frees up your cluster. You were going to give him ball-in-hand anyway, but this way you have given him one more cluster/trouble ball, or given yourself one less cluster/trouble ball. This tips the scale so you will have more of an advantage to win.

4. Who is going to win? Look at clustered balls/trouble balls. How many balls does your opponent have which can’t be made into a pocket? How many balls do you have which can’t be made into a pocket? THIS is the “score board” as to who is going to win! You want to ALWAYS and FIRST THING adjust this scale so all of your balls can be made into a pocket and many of your opponent’s balls can’t be made into a pocket. If your opponent has balls tied up, he can’t win. If all of your balls can be made into a pocket as well as the 8, then it is possible for you to run-out I feel this is the MOST important thing to winning. Work from the get go toward tipping the scale to your advantage and to the disadvantage of your opponent.

Example: It is your shot and you have 2 balls which can easily be pocketed. Instead you shoot at a cluster and move those balls so they can be pocketed and turn the table over to your opponent. (Your opponent has two clusters.) Your opponent shoots in a few balls, but does nothing with the clusters. Then your turn and you move your last trouble ball to a spot where it can be made into a pocket. Your opponent shoots in a few more balls and is left with his two clusters which he has left for last. He shoots at one and it does not go into a pocket. Now your turn. Wide open table, no trouble balls, your opponent has pocketed most of his balls so they are not blocking your shots, every one of your balls can be made into a pocket, easy run-out and win!

8 Ball Pool Rules Game Pigeon Game

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